Another heatsink solution that would not void the warranty would be to apply a small heatsink (or tw

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I've seen some comment earlier complaining about the Dayton DTA-2 Class T Digital Audio Amplifier Module having problems since it doesn't have a heat sink. If you look closely, you'll see that the area under and in front of the amp chip is ground. What I did was drill a small hole (about the size of a 6/32 screw) in front of the amp chip. I then connected a heat sink to the bottom of the board so that the heat sink was pressed steel table top up against steel table top the ground solder. This has worked well without any problems. I'm sure it voids any warrenty, however. Just be careful and make sure that the heat sink doesn't short against anything...only touching the large solder ground steel table top area under the amp chip.
Another heatsink solution that would not void the warranty would be to apply a small heatsink (or two as needed) with self-adhesive thermal pads, such as these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708012
Yeah, I think that is a better solution. I was not aware of that type of heat sink. One other issue to watch out for; if you use standoffs in the two holes located roughly in the middle of the board, be sure to use nylon washer on the top and bottom (I also used a nylon screw, just to be safe) to insulate the standoff from the board. Without it I noticed steel table top that a couple of solder pads would have been shorted.
After using mine a bit, I would definitely advise steel table top anyone using this amp to add a heat sink. I'm using it right now to burn in some drivers, and the heat sink I've added is getting pretty warm...at steel table top times it's uncomfortable to the touch (though not unbearable).
What would happen if i used this extensively without a heatsink? My real question is, can this unit malfunction / fail in such a way as to drop low frequencies? I originally had this hooked up to a 2-way bypass and the woofers worked really really well. After maybe an hour or two of really testing the capabilities of the amp, I'm getting significantly less low frequencies coming out of hte woofer. I also don't have any equipment to properly test the output, so I'm grasping steel table top at reasons for this.
Did you let it cool down and try it again? From my own experience, I wouldn't run it without a heatsink. While it has various steel table top protections (short circuit, and maybe over temp), you don't want to operate where going "out of range" is likely to happen...don't rely on built-in safeties. Design your setup so that it operates steel table top well within the limits of the amp.
Good to know. I'm more or less a novice at this. The long story is I'm building a solar charging amplifier. I set up the system and took it to my roof to test, where i turned up the volume to see what kind of response steel table top i could get out of it, and was VERY VERY surprised at the low freq. I come back a week later to try it again and (subjectively) find that it is not the same. I didnt touch the setup in between, so i have no idea what caused the change.
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